What Makes Surfing So Good? Why You Feel Great When You Surf
The smell of the wave, the view of the horizon as you paddle in-n-out, the sensation of sliding the wave, and sometimes rain drops refresh you, while the sun rays warm you up; everything about surfing is just so good and it’s quite hard to compare it to any other activity.
I wish this vibe could be spread all over this post, because once you feel it or sense it – it’s incomparable.
There are a number of things that make surfing so good. Beyond being a physical workout, mentally challenging activity, freedom purveyor, and stress reducer, it is also a cleansing process.
Continue reading to find the answer to what is it that’s so great about surfing.
Meditative Cleanness
Entering the water washes so many things away. Once your feet leave the land and the sand and you start to paddle, you let go of all of your daily life concerns behind, just for an hour or two.
Doing so is a lot like meditation. Meditation is the practice of turning your attention inward and focusing on the present moment.
You train your brain to become more aware of your thoughts and emotions and learn how to better control them which in favor allows you to clear your mind and relax.
When you are surfing, you are in a constant state of meditation as you are completely focused and have to be aware of the waves, the wind, and your posture and stand on the board.
Meditation is becoming increasingly popular for a reason: it works. Practicing it can help us to understand ourselves and the world around us better.
When you’re surfing, you feel purely present, and this sensation is rarely experienced in daily life.
I let the waves go by beneath me and there’s is nothing else out there but water and myself. Nothing else exists or matters at all.
In the water, as much as we try to find the right moment to ride, we are submissive to the waves and have to let them take us where they will.
This is a great way to learn how to set loose and go with the flow, two things that are very hard to do in our fast-paced society.
It’s also a profound way to clear your head if you need concentration and to be focused; such as before a final exam or lately, to think about how I’m going to write up an abstract, piece of code, or design.
The capability to get away is just as essential as actually catching a wave, which is always a lot of fun and exciting.
The Surfing Lifestyle
Surfing is not just a sport, it’s a lifestyle. It’s not just something you do on the weekends, it’s a way of life, it is more than just riding waves, it is about the culture and the lifestyle that comes with it.
You can sense a surfer by the clothes they wear, the music they listen to, and the nutrition they consume.
All those aspects resemble the surfer’s way of life by expressing it outside of the universe. You can tell almost immediately whether someone is a surfer or living the surfing lifestyle by just spending a few minutes with them. I know for a fact it spreads good vibes among others and personally, for myself as well.
And this lifestyle comes with peace, relaxation, freedom, and adventure. Surfing is all about slowing down and enjoying the moment. It’s a chance to connect with nature and forget about your troubles for a while.
That’s why some surfers might swear it’s not a sport at all, even though it is now part of the Olympic games.
It’s just that nothing feels better than surfing. And the real magic is that after a session, everything else is enhanced for a little while; the next beer, nap, work – whatever it is it will keep you smiling.
Also, surfing is not too much of a thing if you don’t like sunrise, or sunset, getting wiped, getting up early, paddling for a long time, and watching the waves. You have to enjoy those little moments in order to keep that smile, and surfing does that.
No Winners, No Losers
Surfing is not a sport because it’s about more than just competition or winning. It’s about connecting with nature, enjoying the waves, and spending time with friends and family. It’s about the lifestyle that comes with surfing, and that’s what makes it so special.
You see, as a surfer, it is an individual effort to reach the life goals you are pledging, while there is no winner or loser in the world, and you only rely on yourself throughout your life.
Of course, it’s important to mention that friends and family and long-term relations as such are the foundation of happiness and well-being.
What I also love about surfing is that it’s a way of life with a constant learning process. Let me elaborate on this.
When you start surfing, the first two years of surfing are your best years. Surfing can be tough sometimes, and when you’re first starting out you have little expectations of the conditions outside or of yourself.
The focus then becomes the act of riding the board, and the anxiety builds up around not being able to surf as well as you or other people expect.
The longer you surf, it becomes more about the act itself. It is now become about enjoying the ocean, bonding with nature, and escaping from technology (aka cell phone) and stressors from land.
So essentially you’re not after succeeding anymore, thus no “competition” around you or for yourself – but you’re just improving yourself as a human being each time.
Surely this is not the end and more lessons from surfing are to come, therefore this post will be updated in the future for sure with more insights.
Conclusion
So what makes surfing so good? It is impossible to narrow it down to one ingredient that creates this goodness.
It is a combination of the peace that comes with being one with nature, a unique activity that engages soul and body, the endless adventures that come with it, and the deep connection you form with the act of surfing and with yourself mentally.
If you think about it, surfing is more than just a sport – it’s a lifestyle, an attitude, and a way of thinking.
You don’t need to win or try to beat someone else. It’s just you with yourself – and it’s really a lot like life, well sort of, as in life we actually do compete, not with others – but with ourselves.